Bolivia

You can´t make this stuff up!!! Well I thought (at least I was hoping) that in Bolivia I would have fewer problems, but no!! (Sorry people, but this is a long, long blog!)


THE PLAN

Arrive in Copacabana from Puno, go on a tour of the Isle del Sol. Then catch a bus to La Paz, stay a couple of days, sort a few things out, before catching the night bus to Uyuni. Do a 3 day tour of the Salt Plains etc. Then catch a bus to Potosi, then onto Sucre, stay a couple of days to rest and then catch a bus to Santa Cruz in time for my flight to Santiago.

Sounds easy doesn´t it - well it wasn´t!!

WHAT ACTUALLY HAPPENED

Obviously you know that getting to Copacabana wasn´t easy, but once there I found a nice hotel to put my feet up and relax in. They had hammocks which was great so I spent my first afternoon, lying in one of these reading my book - wonderful, although later I discovered I had acquired a little sunburn - the price to pay for relaxing too much!! The next day I caught the boat to Isle del Sol. The boat had two motors and a good thing to. Only one was working at any one time and on a few occasions they both decided to stop. We got there though so that was ok. I walked around the Island, saw some more Inca ruins, and had a very nice time.

The next day I hoped on a bus to La Paz (the tourist bus). Everyone on board was a backpacker so at least I didn´t feel bad about taking my Ipod out of my bag and having everyone on the bus staring at me!! We arrived in La Paz (2 hours late, but that's expected in this country!) and I got a taxi to my hostel. The hostel was really nice and the staff all spoke English (makes a change) so I was able to find out what there was to do and also the best way to get my errands done. So I decided that I would in fact try and send home all that shopping I had done in Cusco. My bag is very heavy and I didn´t fancy dragging it around with me. So I made my way to the post office and found out that if I did send the stuff home it would not arrive until January and would cost me GBP50. Well that wasn´t any good, I will be back in December so there was no point in doing that. So unfortunately I am still carrying all that shopping! I also got to find out how much more desperate people are here. In Peru, I thought it was pretty bad. The shoe shine boys kept asking to shine my trainers, but in Bolivia, they keep asking to shine my shoes when I am wearing flip flops!! I mean seriously, my feet aren´t that dirty!! The other thing I noticed here is that a lot of the women are wearing eye patches over their left eye. Seriously on my first day in La Paz I saw something like 10 women like this. What is going on here???

Anyway, I left La Paz on the night bus to Uyuni which is in the very south of Bolivia. Surprisingly enough we arrived early despite the tire blowing and we having to spend an hour by the roadside while the driver and his mate fixed it (this obviously happens a lot). I did not get any sleep on this trip (and I don´t think anyone else did either), most of the journey was on a very very bumpy dirt track (They don´t seem to have very many sealed roads in this country!).

So on arriving in Uyuni, (again women with eye patches!) I picked a tour company that I thought would be nice for me to do the 3 day tour around the area. They specifically said that they had an English speaking guide (there are very few, if any guiding these tours), and that on the first night we would be staying at the Salt hotel and there would be hot water - excellent! So at 11am I jumped in the range rover and off we went. On this tour there were 6 tourists (3 french boys who spoke no English, an Australian couple and me), and the driver and cook - so 8 in total.

We quickly discovered that the guide did not in fact speak any English whatsoever! Problem number 1. This meant for the entire tour we had no idea what was going on. We never knew what we were stopping for, plus as we couldn´t communicate with the guide we never found out any history about the area! Despite that the first day went ok. The scenery was amazing, the Salt Plains was huge, it just seemed to go on forever. It was also nice to drive on as it was flat. But the minute we hit the dirt track, we quickly discovered our car had limited suspension - yeah!! Also the dust seemed to come in to the car despite every door and window being shut (I don´t think my lungs have recovered yet!!). Well near the end of the day our car broke down (the first time). The fuel filter (I think that is what it was called) had blocked up because of all the dust. At least this is what the Australian guy thought was the problem. The driver managed to unblock it and off we went. As we were driving along I noticed that we were leaving all the other tour groups behind and thought this was very unusual. I was right. We rocked up to where we were spending our first night and guess what, it was not the Salt Hotel as we were told, but in fact someone´s home in a tiny village called San Juan in the middle of the desert. We complained, but there was little we could do as we were stuck there and the driver was not going anywhere. So the 6 of us went for a walk around the village, which turned out to be tiny, we did manage to find a building which had beer written on the outside so we took our chances and knocked on the door. A man answered and we managed to find out that he would serve us some alcohol - yeah!! So we drowned ourselves in beer and wine - everything seemed a lot better after that!!

That night was freezing, and then the next morning when I had my shower I discovered there was no hot water at all, just very very very cold water!! They must have piped it up from the Antarctic!! Anyway, we set off for our second day, only to stop after only one hour as the exhaust had fallen off!! (Second breakdown) So the driver jumped out and tied the exhaust to the roof and we carried on. Then a few hours after that the fuel filter blocked again so he had to clean that out (Third breakdown). We then set off again. The scenery as usual was stunning and we got to see flamingos which were awesome. We arrived at our home for the second night, which again turned out to be in the middle of nowhere, but this time with no alcohol! As we were in the middle of the desert it was absolutely freezing, but hey nothing like the present to start getting used to the condition it will be in the UK when I get back!!

The next morning they had issues starting the car (it was 5am when we left, so not too early!), but we managed to set off. As it was very cold, frost had formed on the windows so the driver drove along with his door open and his head peering out of it so he could see where he was going (why he didn´t just wind down the window I don´t know) - anyway we all felt very safe (although I was surprised to discover that our headlights actually worked, so that was a bonus!). So after 2 hours driving, guess what the car´s muzzler fell off! (Fourth breakdown). Our driver, having somehow missed it falling off (god knows how as its huge and the noise the car was now making was ridiculous!), so he dropped us all off and then drove off back the way we came to find it. He (thank God) did return 20 minutes later with the offending item tied, along with the exhaust, to the roof. We then set off again. This time we were heading to the Chile/Bolivian boarder as we were dropping off the 3 French boys who were heading on into Chile. They seemed very relieved to be finally getting off the car and away from all the problems (lucky them!!).

So now we had to drive 8 hours back to Uyuni. The driver had decided to pick up a Bolivian girl (to earn a bit extra money on the side) so we got the enjoy her company for 6 hours (as well as her constant farting, which I have to say were very smelly, and I couldn´t open the window as otherwise a ton of dust would come in). We eventually dropped her off and then continued to Uyuni, but guess what, we were not on the road long before the tire blew (Fifth breakdown). So the driver changed the tire and tied the old one onto the roof along with the rest of the car parts that seem to be dropping off left, right and centre!! We managed to arrive back in Uyuni with no further problems. The Australian couple were very pissed off with the whole trip and so decided to complain. I told them I didn´t think it would be worth it as from past experience the South American´s don´t refund money and it all gets nasty. Guess what.... It got nasty. The secretary of the company managed to recruit about 5 of her friends into the argument to back her up, at one point she went to the police (they obviously thought the situation ridiculous as they never turned up!). So in the end we walked away with nothing. I found it all quite funny as they tried to blame us for everything that went wrong and as the French boys weren´t there to defend themselves they said that it was their fault why everything was dusty - yeah right!!

So the next day I caught the bus to Potosi as there isn´t much to be done in Uyuni and I wanted to get out of town. As I was now in a bit of a rush I only spent the night in Potosi and then caught the 7am bus to Sucre the following morning. This journey was supposed to be the easiest journey I was to take in Bolivia. It was supposed to be 3 hours and therefore I was hoping I could get settled into Sucre by 10.30am and have some breakfast. No such luck!! During the journey, we stopped an awful lot, which I found strange for such a short trip. Then when I thought we were finally getting into Sucre we pulled up behind another coach. People started getting off with their things. I thought surely this can´t be the bus terminal as we are in the middle of a road! I got off the bus with my stuff and took a look down the road to see a mass of cars filling the road ahead of us. My first thought was ´Oh my God, there has been a huge car crash´, but on a closer look, it turned out they were just blocking the road. Due to my lack of Spanish I could not understand what people were saying and therefore did not know what the problem was and how I was supposed to get to Sucre. I spoke to the driver and found out that we were at least 10km away from Sucre and that the walk was mostly uphill (God I wish I had sent home my stuff now!!). He then turned the bus around and said that he was heading back to Potosi and not bothering to go any further to Sucre. I was therefore left stranded in the middle of the road (by the way, I was the only backpacker there, everyone else was Bolivian) to fend for myself. A couple men drove up and said they would drive me to Sucre (for more than it had cost me to come from Potosi), I had little choice so I said yes. There was a Bolivian girl who also had a few bags as well who decided to come as well. Now I know what all the books say - don´t get into a car that isn´t clearly labelled a taxi and don´t get in taxis with other people as it might be a scam! Well I did think this through but I had very little choice as I had no idea where I was or how I was otherwise going to get to Sucre, let alone why the road was blocked! I was thinking there was some kind or huge protest and that if I ever got into Sucre I would discover a hellish scene!

So off we went. It turned out that we had to go the very back route, along a dirt track which was covered in huge stones and clearly only for 4wd, not a taxi! So after 15 mins driving the driver stopped and asked us to get out (the bottom of his car was getting scratch a lot). Again, I did think this does not sound good. Being told to get out of someone´s car, in the middle of nowhere, leave your backpack in the car while he drives on ahead. But I had little choice. He continued to drive while me and the girl walked behind. I did think that this might be a scam between the both of them, but the look on her face clearly stated that she wasn´t happy either! He soon disappeared, which I was not happy about and I thought, right this is truly it. I am now stuck in the middle of nowhere with nothing - great!! After 15 minutes walking we turned a corner and surprisingly enough he was there waiting for us - few!! We jumped back in the car and continued driving. 3 minutes later, we stopped and had to get out again. This went on for over an hour as he struggled to get his car over all the rocks (I bet now he regretted trying to make a bit of dosh on the side out of tourists because of the road block!!). It also turned out that he actually didn´t know the way so whenever we saw a local we had to stop and ask for direction. So after 2 hours of this we eventually made it to the outskirts of Sucre - much to my relief. We drove along the road and then he stopped behind a tanker which was clearly blocking the road. He said we had to get out and walk now as he could go no further due to the roads being blocked. He pointed in the general direction of the centre of Sucre and then drove off - great!!

As I have discovered in South America, places of significance tend to be situated at the top of hills and mountains. Well Sucre is no different to them, the centre just so happened to be at the top of the hill, and a steep one at that!! I tried to see if I could catch a taxi, but it appeared that no traffic was running at all on the roads today???? So I put on my backpack (why oh why did I have to do shopping in Cusco!!), I figure I was carrying about 35kg and set off. The Bolivian girl came with me but she decided to carry her bags in stages. She only had 2 so I didn´t see why she couldn´t carry one in each hand. After a few minutes I got a little annoyed with her running back and forth so I just picked up her bag (I was now carrying 4 to her 1) and set off. Her bag was a lot lighter than any of mine!! Eventually she was met by a friend so I gave her the bag and continued by myself - uphill for half an hour!! It was hard work, it was hot and sunny and I had very little water left. I practically crawled into the first hostel I found. It was overpriced, but I didn´t care as all I wanted to do was stop and lie down!! The room was decent and it had a TV with cable - yeah I made it!! I was so happy to finally be somewhere safe, especially considering at one point I thought I had been had and would never find my way back into civilisation again!!

Although, at least now I can say that I have been to a part of Bolivia that no other backpacker or tourist has ever been to. As we were driving along in the middle of nowhere, the few locals we met all stared at me as they clearly don´t come across tourists very often!!

So I asked at the hostel why there was all the blockades and they lady told me it was a holiday and that no one would work today (so I guess to make sure that no one can, then they just block the roads!!). After I recovered I asked the lady where I could find some food and water. Her response was that that would not be possible today as everything was shut - great I was now going to die of dehydration!! Well I decided to try my luck and after walking around for an hour I eventually found someone who was selling water - yeah liquid! After another half hour I found someone selling a KitKat - yeah some food!! Well that was going to have to do me for the rest of the day as everything was shut. I really didn´t mind, I was just glad to be safe and sound :-)

The following day was completely different. Sucre was a different city altogether. There were cars driving around the roads, shops and restaurants were open and everything seemed to be right again!! I spent the next couple of days chilling out in Sucre, not doing an awful lot - mostly because I felt that if I got in another bus I would never come out the other side alive!! But I still had the issue of how I was going to get to Santa Cruz in time for my flight to Santiago, Chile. As far as I was aware there was only one option and that was a night bus which was 15 hours. Now usually I don´t have a problem with buses or night ones at that. But after recent events and the fact that not one of my trips in Bolivia has gone smoothly I really did not fancy taking another bus let alone at night. But thanks to the Australian couple on the tour who mentioned that I could indeed fly from Sucre to Santa Cruz and the flight was only 25 minutes - excellent!! So I found the AeroSur office and enquired about flights. It turns out it is 3 times the price of the bus ticket but to be honest at this point in time I really didn´t care as I really really really didn´t want to get on another bus in Bolivia again!

So I made my way to the airport, everything for once went smoothly. I checked in, completely expecting to pay excess on my baggage as the lady I had bought the ticket from had said I would need to . My bag was 5kg over but nothing was said, so I got away with that - yeah!! Because it was such a short flight they gave us our food before we boarded the plane!! Anyway, I got on the plane and off we went. It was a pretty rocky take-off. We kind of took off but then hit the ground again before we finally got up into the air. Due to air pressure (at least that was what the pilot said (he was the first pilot I have flown with in South America that I could actually understand when he spoke English!)) we had a lot of bumping around before we finally settled down. So pretty much as soon as we had hit our maximum height, it was time to land again (this has to be the shortest commercial flight in history!). I didn't even get time to eat the minute processed ham and cheese sandwich they had given me :-( So we landed in Santa Cruz, my bag was there and off I went to the hotel. For once everything worked out well. Although I felt like I had arrived right in the middle of an Australian summer. When I left Sucre it was 25 degrees Celsius. Santa Cruz is 38! I seriously thought I was going to melt, its like being back in Broome!! But it is very very nice to be in hot weather again, and I had better make the most of it before I head back to the UK. The other noticeable difference is that Sucre is something like 4000 meters above sea level where Santa Cruz is only about 400m. I have to say I am really appreciating it as it doesn't feel like I am gasping for air anymore, plus for once I didn't wake up in the middle of the night because I had stopped breathing (this is common after you have spent some time at high altitude, and believe me it is not nice!).

Tomorrow I fly to Santiago, Chile. I am really looking forward to getting back down to sea level - mostly for the reasons stated above! Bolivia has been very interesting. It is an absolutely stunning country, the scenery is breathtaking, but it is a very very hard country to travel around which is to be expected I guess! I only have 3 days in Santiago before I fly to Brasil which I am looking forward to - more sun :-)

Peru

Well I arrived in Lima, Peru at 11.15pm (on-time), what I was not expecting was to leave the airport at 12.45am! It took 1 hour and a half to get through immigration and customs. For some apparent reason the airport decided it was a good idea to have 4 flights all arriving at the same time (in the middle of the night), and this for an airport that gets about 6 flights a day anyway! Therefore, the amount of people they had to get through was unbelievable. You had queues to join queues!!! It took so long to get officially stamped into the country that my bag had already been taken off the travellator to make space for the next plane load!! I found the whole situation very bizarre, but apparently it happens every night!! To top it off, once you have got your bag you have to queue for customs - as expected. But because of the sheer volume of people they have this really odd machine. Basically once you get to the front of the queue you give the person your customs card and then you have to personally press a button on this machine in front of you. If it goes green you can pass through without having your bags x-rayed and you´re out of there. If it goes red, then you have to join another queue and go through the x-ray machine. It is basically chance and whether you are lucky enough to avoid standing around for another 30 mins. Guess which colour I got.....red!!!! So I went off to join another queue and surprisingly enough I had nothing suspect in my bag, so eventually I was allowed out of the airport. I found my taxi and we made our way to the hostel. The taxi driver was obviously on some suicide mission as we got to the hostel in half the time and I had to close my eyes for most of the ride because it was so terrifying!!

Lima is not the most exciting city on the planet (although it does beat Santiago), but I managed to occupy myself for 3 days. It also turned out that Emma and Marc were also in Lima (honestly I am not stalking them, although I think they are getting worried!), so I met up with them one night and we had a few Pisco Sours (the national drink, and a very strong one at that!) and a lovely meal in the city centre.

I then had to catch my flight to Cusco, which again was pretty odd. I had checked-in online the day before so that I could reserve my seat, so when I got to the airport I just had to show them the boarding pass I had printed off and hand them my bag. I then went through immigration, again only showing my boarding pass. I then got on the plane, showing only my boarding pass. When I got off the other end, I did not have to show anybody anything and just picked up my bag and walked out of the airport. During that whole time, no one asked to see any identification whatsoever. How on earth did they know that I was the person who had the reservation and that I had taken the right bag!!! All very suspect if you ask me!!!

Anyway, I had arranged with the hostel that I had booked my room with for an airport pick-up. So the guy was there when I came out of the airport, but we had to wait around for another 30 minutes as he was picking up 2 other people. Then he left the 3 of us for 25 minutes, during which time we were wondering if he had just abandoned us and whether we should just get another taxi. Eventually he turned up, in what was his mates car. We then drove the 10 minutes to the hostel. But it turned out that they didn´t know where it was and drove straight past it. We then had to guide them back to it (we had only just arrived in the city!!). So eventually we got into the hostel and we began the checking-in process, filling in forms etc. So once that was done he took us to our room, which as it turned out was to be all together. This was not right. I had booked a single room and the couple had booked a double, so we weren´t all that keen to be sharing. I tried to explained the problem to the guy, using my limited Spanish. He then gave the dorm room to the couple and then half an hour later told me that they had no other rooms for me. I could not believe this. I had made the reservation 2 weeks ago on http://www.hostelworld.com/ and confirmed with the manager 3 times as I had heard of situations like this and didn´t fancy going through it myself!! Well the manager was apparently out all day and I was left with this idiot who spoke no English (I have to say that my Spanish is improving as now when I argue I can do it in mostly Spanish, although I do tend to repeat the same words a lot (I have limited vocab!)).

Anyway, they couldn´t accommodate me and they guy didn´t know why there was no room, so I was then transfered to another hostel, which I had to wait another half a hour for them to come and pick me up. 10 hours later I finally got a call from someone at the original hostel I was supposed to be staying at who explained that the people who were supposed to vacate my room that day, did not and therefore I was not able to move in. I guess when you make a reservation, pay a deposit and confirm three times, then it isn´t set in stone!!! Anyway, they would now come and pick me up at 10am the following morning and I would be able to have my room - great!! Anyway, to cut a longer story short, I eventually got my room, but with countless other problems, including my new room dispensing smoke from the plug socket with a very strong burning smell!!

Apart from all the accommodation problems, Cusco turned out to be quite a nice little town. It´s safe to walk around, which makes a change, and there is lots of shopping to do!! Anyway, before I could shop to my hearts desire I had to make a trip to Aguas Caliente which is the town next door to Machu Picchu (the whole reason I am here!). So I got up very early one morning and caught the train to Aguas Caliente (its a 4 hour plus journey). I arrived safe and sound and joined up with my tour group. Our guide took us to Machu Picchu and gave us a tour for a couple of hours. I have to say that Machu Picchu is absolutely amazing. Completely worth every penny spent! It is unbelievable that the Incas built this place on top of a mountain. The only problem with the place is that it is incredibly touristy, but then what do you expect from Peru´s most famous attraction. After the tour I stayed for a couple more hours, walking around and trying to get pictures of the llamas just wandering around the ruins. I then made my way back to Aguas Caliente where I was spending the night. I have to say that this place has to be one of the worst places in Peru. It is purely built to accommodate tourists who want to see Machu Picchu, and therefore, is completely overpriced and filled up with tons of bars/pizzerias blaring horrible music. Luckily I was there for only the night before I caught the train back to Cusco.

Back in Cusco, I managed to track down Emma and Marc again! They had just arrived in Cusco and were leaving the next day to do the Inca Trail (they had sensibly booked it ages in advance!). So we spent the day wandering around the artisan markets buying stuff that we didn´t really need, but it was all so cheap! So even though I have already sent home 5kg and thrown out another 2kg, I have now gained another 10kg with all the stuff I bought. As I only have 2 months before I am home I am going to try and carry it around with me, but I´m not sure how long that will last! My backpack now looks utterly ridiculous! It has all the stuff I can´t fit inside tied to the outside and therefore looks absolutely huge!

Anyway, I then had to leave Emma and Marc for the last time (they are probably relieved as I have stalked them around most of South America!). I won´t be seeing them again on this trip as they are spending longer in Peru and are not going to Brazil. So I wish them good luck on the rest of their adventures.

I then caught a bus to Puno which is by Lake Titicaca, which apparently is the highest navigable lake in the world! The lack of oxygen in the air is a definite sign that it is high up anyway!! I took a day tour out onto the lake. Our first stop was this tribe which had built its home out on the lake using the reeds. It is absolutely amazing what they have created just using the reeds. All the islands are made out of the reeds, so are their houses, seats, boats and pretty much anything you can think of. They apparently moved out onto the lake several centuries ago to get away from the Incas who were causing a few problems for them. Anyway, we got to spend some time on one of these reed islands as well as sail around on one of the reed boats which was cool. We then got back on our motor boat and sailed the the main island (for Peru) Isla Taquili . Here we spent some time with the locals and they showed us some of their weaving, music and dancing. They even dragged some of us up there to participate, but luckily I was not picked! We then climbed to the top of the island and got a beautiful view of the lake. We then made our way back to the boat and back to Puno.

The next day I was to leave Peru. I got up really early in the morning to catch a bus that had been booked for me in Cusco, by the people I had had problems with the accommodation (I really should have know better!). So surprise surprise when I got to the desk I found out that a reservation had never been made and there were no seats left on the bus. They managed to find me a seat with another bus company who´s bus was leaving an hour later (so much for getting up early!). I then found out that I had in fact paid 4 times the price of the bus so I was not too happy! So I got on the bus to find out that I had got the equivalent of the jump seat in a plane. It was a fold out chair that was squashed between the toilet and a proper seat, so I was in the aisle, squashed and unhappy with the fact I was to be sitting like this for the next 4 hours! It turned out that they also didn´t have any seats left so they created this one for me!! Anyway, I made it to Bolivia in one piece. I have to say that I am relieved to be leaving Peru after all the problems I had there. It was a beautiful country with lots to see, but I just got so exhausted with all the complications - hopefully Bolivia will be trouble free....

Ecuador

Well completely surprisingly enough, I got to Quito, Ecuador with no problems at all and my bags made it as well!! Once I had settled in I had a walk around the old town, which was a very interesting place. There are still loads of people who dress in their tribal clothes, which are very colourful and pretty.

The following day I went to Mitad del Mundo. This is apparently where the Equator crosses Ecuador. The bus journey there was a bit interesting! They appear to squeeze as many people onto the bus as possible, and even when the seats have clearly all gone, they still drive along with the door open shouting the destination of the bus! I was lucky enough to be sitting next to an old lady who had brought 3 alive chickens with her!! Their legs were all tied together and were plonked at my feet - nice!! These poor birds spent the entire journey (2 hours) trying to get up and flap around! Anyway, I eventually made it to my destination. To mark the spot of the Equator crossing is a big square statue........ and that would be about it!!! Its a very touristy area and there are tons of little shops selling bits and pieces you know you don´t want!! I didn´t hang around too long and made my way back to Quito. My journey back to Quito was ok, but the problems started when I had to get the connecting bus to the old town, where I was staying. I asked the bus driver and he confirmed that he was indeed going there so I hoped on. Everything was going ok, until we got so far and then started going back the way we had come - not good!! Some guy, seeing the look on my face and the fact I was looking at the map, asked me if I was ok. I said, ´no´as I thought we were going to the old town and now we are not! So he very kindly helped me to find the right bus and made sure I got to the right destination. His English was not very good, so conversation was limited, but he did manage to ask me if I was married or had a boyfriend!! Then when we got off the bus he asked whether I wanted to visit his family with him!! I quickly made my excuses and pretended that I didn´t understand him and promptly walked off in the opposite direction!!

The next day was Saturday which meant market day. There is one of the biggest markets in Ecuador in a place called Otavalo. I hoped on a bus there - this time I spent the journey being squashed against the window by some lady who was determined to keep her elbows out!! But the journey was worth it. It has to be the biggest market I have ever been to. It appears to take up the whole town - every street is literally covered with stalls. I spent a couple of hours wandering around and I bought a few things that I didn´t need but I liked!!

On Sunday, I felt that I had not spent enough time on the buses in this country so I thought I would make another journey to a town 3 hours south of Quito called Baños. There are several reasons I wanted to visit this town. It is surrounded by volcanoes, it is very pretty and its name when translated means ´toilets´!! Well I had to see it for myself. This time I spent the bus journey next to a woman who breastfeed her son the entire way! And when he wasn't feeding he was trying to clamber all over me and take my book and water away!! Baños was a very pretty town and a nice place to relax after being in a crazy city like Quito. It was not covered in toilets as one might expect but what the locals call baths (or what we would called swimming pools!). I enjoyed myself there, not doing anything much. I went on a few walks, but I really didn't have time to do anything else. After a couple of days I caught a bus back to Quito. This time I was chatted up by two different men who I think where only interested in me as I was the only gringo on the bus (=money!). My time in Ecuador was then over and so I flew onto Peru...